Covid Cross Day #21 Stockholm, WI to Houlton, WI

Covid Cross Day #21

June 22, 2020
Stockholm, WI to Houlton, WI 67 Miles

Start 7:14 AM Finish 8:38 PM
Ride Time 6:46

Ascent 2913 Feet

Descent 2741 Feet

Tour Total 1860 Miles
Details at: https://cyclemeter.com/3f1ef27914a4c684/Cycle-20200622-0714-57917

I slept reasonably well last night at the Stockholm Village Park Campground. I had pitched my tent up on the bandstand stage. I had spotted the bandstand when I surveyed the campground upon my arrival in town. I knew there was gong be a heavy rain and I needed to be under cover. Last night qualified as a campsite sneak in. There was a reservation box and instructions, yet also a sign saying 'Campground Full'. There were several other campers and RVs.

Yesterday evening, after sitting in front of the pie shop and editing my report, I pedaled over to the campground in the rain. I set up my tent under the bandstand canopy and sat at the picnic table. To my delight, I discovered there was free village Wi-Fi. The rain was blowing in through the sides of the bandstand so I moved into my tent. I wasn’t tired so I decided to make use of the Wi-Fi. I was now mirroring my blog on Crazyguyonabike.com. There was an electrical outlet on the bandstand so I ran an extension cord into my tent. All of my devices were fully charged by morning.

It was a slow pack up this morning. I took my vitamins and packed up my gear. I was about 200 feet from the banks of the Mississippi River and could see Frontenac State Park, across the river, where I had stayed last year. Last night in addition to the pouring rain hitting the tin bandstand roof, there were freight trains barreling through the village, about 300 feet from where I was sleeping. The trains came through several times and it was the loudest earth-shattering noise I’ve ever heard. Fortunately the trains didn’t additionally blast their horns. The shear mass and momentum of heavy machinery on hard cold steel rattled everything for miles. Last night was not the first time I had slept on a stage while on tour. Steve G. and I set up our tents on a large bandstand stage in Wytheville, VA on my Trans Am tour.

I noticed numerous Iowa Hawkeye fans in this part of Wisconsin. I've seen several flags and bumperstickers. The tour began three weeks ago today, and I was approaching the halfway point. I was looking forward to the wild west. I stopped at the Maiden Rock historical site to read about the story of a young Sioux girl who committed suicide after her parents forced her to marry someone whom she didn’t love.

I pedaled north on Highway 35 aka The Great River Road. It was a two lane highway with eight foot shoulders and scenic views of bluffs along with sweeping views of the river. The air was cool and I was wearing my short sleeve jersey and shorts. It was lightly overcast and the sun was trying to break through. The road cut away from the river before Bay City and I had myself a climb. A lady out getting her morning exercise walked towards me on the shoulder. I had a nice long downhill into Bay City, population 500.

According to Google, the bar & grill in Bay City wasn't yet open, so I stopped at the Handy Mart where I purchased two Starbuck Frappuccinos and a doughnut. I topped off my breakfast with the banana I had purchased yesterday. While sitting on the bench eating my breakfast, I met a local guy who worked on the railroad. He told me it was the St. Croix branch, which hauled a considerable amount of freight. He said that the village of Stockholm had worked out a special arrangement with the railroad. The trains didn't blast their horns in exchange for signage and a special crossing. He was interested in cycling and was planning to join a Wisconsin bicycle tour this summer. I told him about the awesome Great River Trail north of La Crosse.

On my way out of town, I noticed that Mike’s Baytown Bar & Grill was open. F-ing Google maps had been wrong. At Hager city I took a left on highway 63 which barely had any shoulder along with crappy high-speed motor traffic. I took a right on a tiny little road next to a bunch of boat slips on the river and found myself back on my paper map. I was once again back on last year’s route. After my nice little diversion at Hager city the route brought me back to Highway 35. There were extraordinary bluffs to the west.

After Diamond Bluff the route cut away from the river and I had a big climb. It was still overcast and cool. The rumble strips still had water in them from last night's rain storm. I climbed to the top of the hill and for a moment was in the Wisconsin Prairie. Then I saw the downhill sign. I flew screaming down to cross Big River and then made a second climb.

I passed a dairy farm with some handsome brown cows. At the junction of County Road QQ the second downhill began and I rode down into Prescott, my last stop in Wisconsin. Two cyclists were headed up the hill in the opposite direction. The first was carrying a backpack and the second had panniers. I doubted they were going far.

Prescott Wisconsin is the Gateway to the Great River Road. All of these towns have No Engine Braking ordinances, ostensibly because it creates a lot of noise. All of the towns that I've visited have signs honoring their military heroes and sports figures. Prescott, however, honors it's legendary dance team, which has won dozens of accolades. Go Prescott Dance Team!

I stopped at the Kitchen Table and ordered the Biker Burger and fries, along with two pints of Bells Two Hearted Ale. As I was leaving Prescott I was passed by a southbound touring cyclist who was traveling with frame packs. I crossed the bridge over the St. Croix River into Minnesota and found myself on State Highway 21, the St. Croix Trail. I spotted faded round stickers on the Minnesota state welcome sign as well as subsequent MRT bike trail signs.

Prescott is where the Saint Croix and Mississippi rivers split. The Saint Croix becomes the state boundary and the Mississippi meanders west into Minnesota. I remained on the east side of the Mississippi, although I was now in Minnesota, the tour's eleventh state. I noticed numerous MRT signs that had faded stickers stuck to the front wheel of the bicycle icon. Hmmm. The route split away from the St. Croix River which meant uphills. For a moment I was up in the prairie. I passed Saint Croix Bluffs Regional Park, where I used to cliff jump when I lived in Minneapolis.

I came to a downhill sign. I was listening to WFMU’s $mall ¢hange as I hit 37 miles an hour and then another uphill. I passed another MRT sign with a faded round sticker in the front wheel of the bicycle icon. It was overcast, gray, and cool, and perfect cycling conditions. The route had me on County Highway 21, aka The Stage Coach Trail road. I came to a sign that said Road Closed .6 miles Ahead. I proceeded regardless. Today was the first day of construction and they were just setting up the barriers. The construction workers and I smiled at one another as I rode through. This ostensibly meant the road would be void of traffic ahead, just me.

I crossed over I-94 which I could hear from miles away. The sound of rubber on pavement is loud. A few more miles down the road I noticed a large smokestack far in the distance. Coming into St. Croix, I was apprehensive about a couple of issues. Firstly there was a hill that I would descend which undoubtably was the steepest hill I’d ever ridden down fully loaded. Secondly, last year the lift Bridge was closed and I had to circle back around and ride on an expressway over a massive bridge to cross the Saint Croix River.

I passed the maximum security Minnesota Correctional Facility which I remembered from last year. It was built like a fort. Hopefully this was where the cops who killed George Floyd would end up. I came to the ginormous St. Croix Crossing, an extradosed bridge that I braved last summer to cross the St. Croix. I was really hoping that I wouldn't have to cross it again this year. I came to the big steep hill, and it was big and steep. My shoes were unclipped from my pedals, and it wasn't as terrifying as last year. The lift bridge across the St. Croix appeared to be open, so I wouldn't have to circle back and ride on the expressway. My fears were allayed.

I stopped at the Freight House where I had come last year. The servers were all wearing masks. I ordered numerous Lift Bridge Elevated Ambers, and consumed two pulled pork sandwiches while I edited today's post. I crossed over the Saint Croix River on the recently renovated lift bridge, and could see the huge St. Croix Crossing in the distance. The bicycle/pedestrian trail over the old lift bridge was awesome. I was back in Wisconsin for another night. It was starting to get dark and I was searching for stealth camping options. I stopped at B&L liquors where I ordered a Blue Moon. I sat outside and enjoyed my beer, while I finished this report.