Covid Cross Day #35 Winnett, MT to Moore, MT
Covid Cross Day #35
July 8, 2020
Winnett, MT to Moore, MT 70 Miles
Start 5:50 AM Finish 9:15 PM
Ride Time 7:44
Ascent 2172 Feet
Descent 1019 Feet
Tour Total 2952 Miles
I slept well in the Winnett City Park. I heard raindrops splattering against my tent in the middle of the night. I went outside around 3:30 AM to use the bush and saw the half-full moon with dramatic clouds above. I woke up at 5 AM and everything was wet from condensation and rain. The wind wasn’t yet blowing, and I got an early start. My rolled-up tent was soaked so I stuck it underneath my rear rack bag. There was a beautiful sunrise with splendid lavender clouds.
Yesterday afternoon, I had forgotten to cover my saddle and put my gloves in a dry place when I went to the bar before the storm hit. My gloves were still soaking wet. I had been able to run an extension cord into my tent last night and all my devices were charged this morning. There were huge puddles throughout town and the rumble strips out on the highway were full. I got on State Highway 200 aka the National Lewis & Clark Trail aka The Old West Trail. It was chilly and I was wearing my sweater. The Sandpipers were out in numbers, and I could see a mountain range to the west.
This morning would be a long climb from 3000 feet to 4700 feet, stretching about 45 miles. The first part of the slope had a mellow grade, but it would get steeper the closer I got to the pass. There was hardly any motor traffic on the road and I had a 40 inch shoulder with no rumble strips. There was either a scuff mark or condensation inside the clear plastic lens on my odometer. I was happy to realize that what I had thought was a five was actually a nine, meaning that I was four miles closer to breakfast. I passed a herd of cattle and noticed quite a few calves.
Outside of Teigen I could see a dark object on the other side of the road in the distance. It seemed like an animal and not a road sign. As I got closer I realized it was a large mammal, and I assured myself there were no bear around here. I eventually realized it was a stray cow walking down the opposite shoulder. I sure hope he didn't get hit by a truck. There was no population listed for Teigen. Other than a gravel road access to the War Horse National Wildlife Refuge, I noticed a house, a barn, and a stable. I got a friendly tap-tap from an oil tanker truck going the other direction. I bet it was the driver whom I met two days ago, and I waved. I entered Fergus county.
Six miles out from Grass Range I lost my shoulder. I could spot the town, population 110, from two miles away. There were clear skies to the west and clouds behind me. The storm systems tended to draw air, which was why strong twenty mile-an-hour headwinds were forecast for today. As it turned out, I wasn’t as close to Grass Range as I had thought. The dude who cut the grass on this highway needed to do a better job trimming around the mile marker posts. There were piles of dirt and clumps of grass in front of every single sign post. Several of the markers had been bashed into. Come on dude! Show that you care.
The sun came out at 7:45 AM. I noticed the moon low on the horizon. It was large, white, three-quarter full, and waning. I could now see the junction with US Highway 87 and the turn off to Grass Range, where I would hopefully be having breakfast. It was a mile off route. Malta, where I had passed through last year on the Hi-line, was 112 miles to the north on State Highway 19. I could spot a gas station in the distance. Up on a hill I saw a large blue water tank with a painted mural of a cowboy riding horseback across the range. The cafe was closed as well as the bar. I went to the Conoco station, aka Ole Mercantile, where I had a microwaved Badlands Breakfast Croissant, a Starbucks Frappuccino, an orange juice, some cheese sticks and beef jerky, and a chocolate huckleberry shake. I used the bathroom where the water reeked of sulfur.
After breakfast I cycled back up to highway 200 and took a left toward the west. The wind was now much stronger. Two separate trucks hauling beehives passed me. The wind was so strong that it was hard to dictate notes. There were no birds, butterflies, or bugs today, because it was too windy. I passed some horses in the field who viewed me with suspicion. I noticed one of the male horses urinate, and was shocked at the size of his penis. At the North Fork of McDonald Creek I was just fifteen miles from the pass. A semi truck hauling a thrasher cautiously passed me. The Judith Mountains were now in clear view to the northwest.
I stopped to read a historical marker about Camp Lewis, an old fort along the old Carroll Trail. There was an orange string running alongside the shoulder which I followed for miles. Evergreen trees began to appear as I climbed up towards the pass. I passed a warning sign for logging trucks, and started spotting bark on the shoulder. I saw a vehicle chain-up area, which indicated that this pass had severe winter conditions. An oncoming motorist was speeding down the hill passing other motorists. I veered off the shoulder, into the gravel, to be safe. The final two miles up to the pass I was pedaling between four and five miles an hour. It was steep and I had a headwind. I saw a radio tower in the distance which indicated that I was getting close. It was a nice stretch of grassland with hills and trees, and puffy clouds above. I wish that there had been a tail wind. The blades of long grass, undulating in the wind, resembled ocean waves. I could see patches of snow on top of Big Baldy Mountain to the south.
I enjoyed the wonderful smell of evergreen trees, and was passed by a logging truck just as a car was passing from the other direction. I was glad to have a good two-foot shoulder. That was all I had. There was a weather station up on top of the pass but no road sign. I urine marked the 4740' elevation, the highest point yet on the tour. It was beautiful riding through grass pastures with mountain ranges visible to the north, west, and south. I could spot Lewiston from at least five miles away. A pick-up truck was passing a car towing a boat and I pulled far over into the grass.
I entered Lewiston, which was located at the geographical center of Montana. I noticed a billboard claiming the World's Finest Spring Water. If this was true, it was time to refill my water bottles. I stopped at an old Minuteman missile on display in the center of town. I had never documented my bike leaning against a nuclear missile. I then pedaled to Big Spring Brewing Company where I ordered numerous Scottish Ales, Tempura Fried Pickles, Smoked Salmon Ceviche, Seared Ahi Tuna, Pretzels, and Cheesecake.
While consulting my maps, I decided to alter my route. Rather than taking the roundabout ACA Lewis and Clark route through Fort Benton, I chose to stay on the new 2020 ACA Northern Tier route directly to Great Falls. This would save me a day. The advantage of having all these different routes on my phone was that I could pick and choose. I didn’t need to meander out of my way. I was just trying to get to Uncle Taco's house in Portland. The wind was supposed to be good tomorrow.
Back out on the road I noticed that the wind had settled. I heard from Bill who said that it had taken him thirteen hours to get from Jordan to Winnett. I found myself in the high plains surrounded by mountain ranges. The wind was mellow and I had another hour of sunlight. I was at 4100 feet elevation riding a long flat section. There were mountain peaks to the south, west, and north. Things now felt different. I was at a higher elevation and my surroundings had changed. There were mountain ranges in every direction and it no longer felt like I was on the prairie. The rolling landscape meant better stealth camping options.
The sun was low on the horizon and I was enjoying a nice wide shoulder on Montana Highway 200/US Highway 87. I noticed a train track to the south, that hadn’t been active in ages. I was trying to make up for the wind I had experienced earlier. I was looking forward to getting into Great Falls a day early, and taking a shower. Aimee was at the Honey Hut in Gackle, Sid and Chris were in Cut Bank, and Bill was enjoying his mixed berry pie in Winnett. I found a nice stealth camping spot right outside of Moore.
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