Covid Cross Day #52 Astoria, OR to Goble, OR
Covid Cross Day #52
July 26, 2020
Astoria, OR to Goble, OR 68 Miles
Start 8:10 AM Finish 5:45 PM
Ride Time 6:30
Ascent 2683 Feet
Descent 2672 Feet
Tour Total 4076 Miles
I had a great night’s sleep last at the Columbia Inn in Astoria. I woke up at 5 AM but rolled over for more rest. My body was exhausted, and it felt exhilarating to lay there with the weight of my body against the mattress. I finally got out of bed, folded up my dry tent, and put on my clean cycling clothes.
The town was still coming to life when I departed. While riding through town, I could see the Lewis and Clark Column, high up on the hill. I had a headwind which made no sense, because the wind had been blowing up the Columbia west to east for the last week. Astoria was established in 1811 and billed itself as the oldest continuous US settlement west of the Mississippi.
After riding 4,000 miles and crossing the continent, having to turn around and ride back to Portland was like teaching a semester at the New School during COVID and then being asked to do a nine hour training session without pay. That said, it occurred to me that I could just keep going past Portland and ride all the way back to Brooklyn. I wound backwards leaving the tsunami hazards zone. For the first time this tour, I was headed east into the morning sun. The air was cool and I was wearing my sweater. I would get hot on the climbs, yet it was perfect riding in the shade, on the straights, and down the hills.
I stopped for breakfast at The Logger in Knappa. I had admired their sign on the highway, a pine tree being sawed down. The interior was decorated with large lumberjack saws and antler chandeliers. The booths were all separated by patterned glass to socially distance guests. I ordered eggs over-easy, bacon, toast, hash browns, orange juice and coffee. After breakfast I continued the highway ups and downs as I retraced the route.
I stopped at the Berry Patch in Westport, which was brimming with the after church crowd. I ordered a slice of huckleberry pie a la mode along with with marionberry lemonade. I sat out front at a picnic table. Afterwards I rode down to the river to wait for a ferry. Boats departed from the Oregon side every sixty minutes at a quarter past the hour. It was my first and only ferry ride on this tour. Six cars were already waiting. I stood in the shade and once the ferry arrived, I cut second in line. Once on board, motorists who stepped out of their vehicles onto the boat deck were asked to put on their masks, so I obliged. It was $3 for bicycles.
The ferry arrived at Puget island, and I was told to wait until the last motor vehicle had departed before I was allowed to pedal up the ramp. I was now back in Washington. I rode across the island and found the Julia Butler Hanson Bridge across the north channel of the Columbia. I entered the town Cathlamet and I climbed a steep hill and took a right on Washington State Highway 4 aka The Ocean Beach Highway. The road was similar to Highway 30 on the Oregon side, and I was riding up and down cuts alongside the river.
I crossed the Cowitz County line. Much of the route was directly alongside the river. There were nice beaches, and cars were parked on the shoulder where folks were fishing. I noticed a waterfall on the left side of the road. I passed through the small historic town of Stella, where there was only one structure. Wild blackberries were growing alongside the road, and I stopped to stuff my face. I rounded a bend and Mount Adams came into view in the distance. A half moon was visible in the sky above.
One of the objectives of taking the alternate Washington route was to visit Hop & Grape brewery in Longview. I had verified the hours this morning before I departed. By the time I was nearing the town, the hours had changed. None of the breweries would be open today. I later learned this was because of COVID. I entered Longview through the sprawl. I spotted a cherry stand and stopped. The fruit had come from Hood River Oregon and was fantastic. The proprietor was also selling marionberries, blueberries, and jalapeños. He stuffed an extra handful into my bag and promised he’d have beer for me the next time.
I followed Google maps to route me to the bridge. I rode through Sacajawea Park along a fantastic trail and waterway. I pedaled through shaded neighborhoods and down pleasant bike trails. Eventually I spotted the bridge in the distance. The Lewis & Clark bridge was a mile and a half long structure with two lanes of motor traffic. A giant lumber operation sat below. I had a nice four foot shoulder except that it was littered with bark and debris. Rather than compete for the clean pavement out in the motor traffic lane I pedaled the bumpy rodeo-style shoulder, and it was harrowing.
A piece of bark got stuck in my fender which made an irritating rubbing sound. I was just glad that I didn’t get a flat tire. I got to the Oregon side and saw the huge uphill that I had climbed Friday. I rode into town and went to the Evergreen Pub & Cafe and ordered several Big Bend Hefeweizens along with microwaved pork rinds.
I pedaled six miles to Goble Landing RV park where set up my tent and got the shower code. I rode over to the nearby Historic Goble Tavern where I continued to order Hefeweizens along with a cheeseburger with fries. I sat out back where there were ring toss and corn hole games. I met a noisy group of locals who gave me their contact information and told me to call them my next time through.
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